| Journal | Photos |
| 1. Intro | |
| 2. Katmandu | Katmandu pictures |
| 3. Tibet | Lhasa pictures |
| 4. Everest | Everest pictures |
| 5. Thailand | Thailand pictures |
| 6. Singapore | Singapore pictures |
| Itinerary | click here |
| Map | click here |
| Snow Lion Trip Descriptions | click here |
| Rod Chandler's Photos | click here |
| Peter's Photos (all 1100+) | click here |
San Francisco International Airport – Actually it’s now October 17th @ 12:30 a.m. I’m sitting here with Rod Chandler and Mark Andreason who are both taking a nap. Our flight to Singapore leaves in about forty-five minutes. I can’t hardly believe that we are on our way to the Himalayas! This trip has been in the works since Gannett Peak over two years ago and it is finally underway. There’s something about getting out and going global that is really invigorating. Standing in line at the Singapore Airlines counter, we are the only Caucasians. Lots of nationalities but only us white folk – I love it. People are still friendly. Kids still play and cry. Parents of small children still have their hands full. Mark said we are just ahead of President Bush into Thailand. Didn’t realize that when we planned this! Our bags are checked clear to Katmandu even though we layover in Bangkok for a day.
This trip has really come together well—I hope the travel is up to the anticipation! At the beginning of the year, I had good feelings about two things to accomplish. One was the church history trip and the other was this. The church history trip was wonderful and has continued to live beyond the actual trip as I have read the Journals of Joseph, Parley P. Pratt’s autobiography and more church history in the Doctrine and Covenants. It was really a choice experience.
The physical preparation for this trip began with new shoes and walking around Adam-ondi Ahman. Then, Brad, Chase, Taylor and I climbed King’s Peak (highest mountain in Utah). There I learned you need to make progress while you can and that there is power in the priesthood. Also, that you can go much farther than you think you can. I didn’t expect great weather in the Wyoming Windrivers as it was forecast to be cold but it was spectacularly beautiful. I was strong enough for a good pack. Continued pushing was hard but really got feeling great. I hiked Lone Peak, Mount Nebo and Provo Peak all in a weeks time—all hard but a great feeling on top and a good sense of accomplishment. Last Friday, I hiked Timpanogos from Timpanuki. Started out from the house in warm weather but by the time I got to the canyon, a cold front had come in. No gloves and a makeshift hat but made it. The water in my Camelback tube froze. Didn’t stay long on top! But all these combined to feel like I’m in much better shape for the trip.
It has been so great to have something to look forward to and anticipate. The inspiration helped me get a lot of stuff done. Work has really been a blessing. I’ve had a couple of good jobs in the last month and got both done before I left. More jobs are stacked up for when I get home but with comfortable deadlines. Things weren’t strained before and shouldn’t be after.
I set up an email rule and voice mail saying I’m out for the next five weeks with no contact. So many people are excited for the trip reports. Dave Johnston, my neighbor, talked to me three times today to see if I had left yet. I have about 40 people on my email broadcast list.
So, I’m trying to think what I can be thinking about and focusing on during this trip that will be of life benefit. I bought some interesting books on the founding of the United States. I have this journal and a couple of others that I can fill with writings. Through my hiking, I have prayed a lot and felt that there was a power to prayer that I gained because of the physical exertion. I thought I might be able to write the “things I know” or my life’s history to this point—or the beginning of a novel. The Sherpas go through a religious ritual before going to the mountain. Today, I went to the temple as well. It started me thinking about the opposites theory again. Something said about passing through sorrow in order to see the difference between truth and error. I wondered if that meant that pain helps us see reality?
10-18-03
Our flight to Bangkok was fairly uneventful. Lots of hours of flying in the dark. From the moving flying map, we could tell that we flew up over Alaska, along the Aleutian Islands, over Korea and China—right over Beijing—then straight south. As we got to Hualong, the horizon started to appear out my window. After flying in the dark so long, it was a dramatic sunrise. The dark of the earth below then a thin layer of reddish orange, a light blue that faded to dark blue above, setting off the wing of the plane. When the sun came up with its reflection on the wing and airfoils, it was really beautiful with the misty China mountains below.
Fortunately, we landed in Hong Kong after about 12 hours. The itinerary said 18 hours and 50 minutes of flight and I assumed it was straight through to Singapore as the ticket didn’t say anything about a stopover. We walked around and went through security again. Security has been pretty tight. I’ve had to take off my shoes twice and take off or remove anything with metal in it including belts. In Salt Lake, we were selected for secondary screening and they went completely through all our bags.
Didn’t see much of Singapore coming in—water and green, that’s about it. The airport is huge and the plane taxied forever. Also, our walk from one Singapore gate to another was probably a half a mile. On the flight to Bangkok, I started talking to some young men next to me. They were clean cut and student looking (college). I wondered if they might be incognito security for APEC summit but turned out, they were on a mission for their church. They were from a non-denominational Christian church in San Luis Obisbo and were going to Pattaya to work with orphans and people in prison. It was a 10-day mission and they were meeting people from other parts of the world. Good young men—Phil, Matt, Luis and Glen (?). Glen had seen the movies God’s Army and Other Side of Heaven. Phil was from Utah and had been Mormon until ten when his mom moved. As we parted, they blessed us on “every foot of our climb and on every flight.”
So we hit a brick wall in Bangkok. Got our room at the hotel across the street from the airport and then went to change money and get a cab (exchange: 39 Baht to $1 US). Turns out that with the Asian Pacific Economic Conference (APEC), heads of state from many major countries are coming—President Bush on Monday. Roads into the city are shut down five times tonight and there is no way for us to be able to see the city. I was hoping that Mark and Rod could at least see Wat Prakao and maybe the Chowpaya River. So, we’re back at the hotel, eying the room service menu for noodles and just relaxing after a shower.
October 19, 2003
Technically, it is Sunday but with losing a day and then staying awake at night plus flying, I’m not sure I felt much of a Sabbath spirit. Tonight, I’m immersed in the senses of Kathmandu. I’m not sure what I was expecting but our arrival was really spectacular. It began with what looked like a few piled clouds on the far horizon over the wing. As we approached, snow and rock came into focus and we could see the whole Himalayan range in eastern Nepal. The mountains seemed to be at or above our level and we were at 27,000 feet! The view was spectacular and fortunately, we were on the right side of the plane – and I had a window seat. Even got a little illegal video.
Then as we turned 180 on descent, all of those vertical miles of rice terraces in a hundred shades of green came into view. The countryside with the brick houses and buildings, the brick kilns, narrow roads and the countryside. It brought back a rush of feelings and emotions – like I’d been here before—but it was all new. Our Thai Airways 777 was the only jet at the airport. There were several twin prop jobs lined up with Buddha Air on them and a couple of Yeti Airlines prop jobs.
Katmandu is such an assault on the senses. Immediately the traffic, the smells, the rundown mixed with the exhaust. The smell of incense and garbage, spices and flowers. And all laden with that subtle aroma that I haven’t pinpointed which could be spice or an aromatic body odor. Not sure whether to be repulsed or enticed by it.
Our bags – all of them –arrived when we did. The visa line was horrendously long. Not sure the process but I didn’t have to pay for my visa and Mark and Rod did. I think it was because I put I was only staying 2 days. From the terminal to the taxi, Mark was fleeced of $15 US--$10 for the inside porter and $5 for the outside porter. When we later found that the average daily wage was $3, they had cleaned up! Rajiz from Snow Lion Nepal met us at the airport. He had a big smile and short haircut with a tiny tuft of hair below the back crown of his head. He said his uncle had died and when a family member dies, all the men in the family cut their hair.
We drove to the Shangri-la Hotel –a small hotel setting back off the road to the US Embassy. Our room was on the second floor, overlooking the beautiful garden and restaurant area. The evening was free so we walked towards the Thamel district. So much similar to 18 years ago but not able to recognize anything. Intensely crowded! Three or four-story buildings with shops at street level and narrow streets. We walked some distance only stopping at a couple of stores with Top of the World posters – beautiful panorama photos of different parts of the Himalayas.
Along the way we picked up a little boy. He was bright and said he knew the capitals of every country – just ask him. So I did. Uzbekistan - “Tashkent”, Turkmenistan - “Ashgabat”, Canada - “Ottawa”, Australia – “Canberra”, an on and on. He was very knowledgeable and had a an even cuter personality. I needed him to help me find one of the three ATMs in the area. I’d never have found it without him. He never asked for money. We went past Durbar Square and he led us right to the ATM. He was 12 and his mother was working somewhere. It is amazing that little kids like him just wander the streets of such a complex city. I wanted to reward him for his navigation skills and he suggested I buy him a can of dried milk for his five-month old brother. I was moved to think he would ask that for his brother and bought him two cans instead of one. He thanked me and shook my hand. He also went up to Rod and asked him where he was from—“Idaho”. “And what is the capital of Idaho?” Rod told him Boise. He shook their hands and disappeared, carrying his bag of milk.
We found our way to the main road and walked back to the hotel. We had gone quite some distance and were glad to get back to the room and food. The hotel is such a sanctuary from the noise and pollution. Candles lit along the walls and steps, music and an open-air buffet of grilled meat and assorted foods. By 8:30, we were all ready for sleep and were out by 9 – only to awake at about 4 a.m. I went out as the sun came up for some pictures but only got some of a construction site as the clouds didn’t provide much good light. Breakfast buffet with omelets, toast and hot chocolate.
At 9:30, we met Sunil, our guide. He had been running a little late and Rajiz was worried. In the mean time, Rajiz went over a detailed map of our trip and highlighted the places we would be visiting. Sunil showed up with our sadir (head Sherpa), Kaji. We liked Kaji immediately. He is mild mannered and quiet yet exudes a feeling of control and confidence. Sunil has never done this particular trek before but Kaji has done it twice. They brought some photos of Base Camp and it looks pretty barren.
Sunil briefed us on our itinerary. He appears competent but also appears to have a lot on his mind. He took our passports to get the Tibet visa ($65 US) and then introduced us to Ravindra, our tour guide for the day in Katmandu. We collected our cameras and then were chauffered to the Pashupatinath Temple, a Hindu sanctuary with a river running through it. A river, steps, a temple and smoke – those four things. And whenever there is smoke there are….cremations. Several were in process. Kind of interesting in that on one side of the river were families and rituals going on for what would in our culture be considered a private affair. On the other side of the river were all types of people – many foreigners – taking pictures, video and watching the process. We watched one pyre being lit, another burning and another two just as the bodies were brought in. The body was in a bamboo stretcher-like thing and had sides of white gaze cloth. While the body was on the ground, family walked around it and a woman in a sari knelt to burn incense at the head. Finally, several men lifted it and carried it to the platform where the wood had been stacked in a body-length bed. The family circled the wood with the men holding and turning the corpse around the pyre several times and then laid it on the wood. The cloth was removed to reveal the body covered with orange and purple flowers. These were removed and thrown in the river. The next station over had been at about this point when we arrived. Wood was stacked on top of the corpse and then the cracks were stuffed with dry straw. Only the feet were visible extending from the stack. A man – attendant-like in white – kept the fire burning by working the burning straw in the cracks.
Ravindra was very good at explaining the Hindu rituals and meaning. The five elements – sky, water, earth, fire, and knowledge were all represented in the ritual. Body returns to sky via smoke, was consumed by fire with ashes going to water. We moved on looking across the river from above to see the Hindu temple with its large sliver doors. Only Hindus were allowed inside since the Muslims destroyed some of it several centuries ago. Cows wandered freely and at one point, a herd cam running down the temple steps. Cows are sacred because the Ganges – great river and mother of life – originally started out of the mouth of a cow.
Ravindra told me about the struts that brace the umbrella type roofs of the Hindu temples. The struts are carved from top to bottom. At the top are plants that represent linking heaven. In the center are the demigods that represent the struggles of life – Shiva, god of destruction, with many arms. And the bottom—well, I wish he hadn’t told me. They represent erotic sex (six types) and act as a protection against lightning to the building. Very obvious on all the other Hindu temples that I saw from here out!
Somehow, our ride got lost so we just stood on the corner by a policeman for about forty-five minutes. Saw the sacred cows being fed corn. A cast of women dressed in orange just sitting on a porch. Ravindra said they were living their cast mission which was to sing songs and meditate. And the Brahmans—wild looking, long hair, faces painted and wanting to paint your forehead with a tika or red dot. Ravindra said a true Brahman will not ask for money or offer to have his picture taken with you. We only saw one like that. He was sitting by the river and if you put money on his plate, he would send up prayers for your good deeds. Ravindra was full of lots of Hindu facts and philosophies – many that I just couldn’t even frame in my mind with anything I understood.
Next stop was Boudanath temple, one that you see often in photographs. It is a large circular mandala (wheel of life) with three levels and surrounded with prayer wheels. At very large prayer wheel, I happened in just as a little boy was riding it around (I hope I got it on video). One, three or seven—that’s how many times you should turn around with the wheel. Also, there were smaller wheels mounted in the walls around the complete perimeter of the temple.
Shops surrounded the perimeter of the temple and we stopped while Rod and Mark bought prayer flags. Rod wants to fly them on his tent and then give them as gifts. He had asked several times when we were going to find some and when we finally got them he said, “We can go home now!”
Just outside the temple we were accosted by several women with babies asking for money. I tried to ignore them but they were persistent and followed me along the sidewalk, pulling on my arm. I looked up to see a little store and no sooner thought of the night before and milk when she said, “Buy milk for my baby!” I hesitated and we were all pulled to the counter. Five or six women all with babies wanting us to buy them a can of milk. Ravindra said only to buy one and let them share. The shopkeeper didn’t seem happy either. I stepped away with Ravindra and Mark and Rod bought two cans. They continued to follow and Rod finally gave one a US dollar to get her to leave.
After, Ravindra said it was a common scam. They get you to buy milk and then take it back to the shop keeper and get the money back. They paid 500 Rupees a can, more than twice what I had paid the night before. I had wondered if the kid was working me—he was and I fell for it. Minor money to us but sure wish I knew how to solve some of their problems without making them worse. Ravindra said what they were doing was actually illegal and our contributing to it condones the behavior.
Back to the hotel for an hour rest and then Rod and I took a taxi to the Thamel district. The area is a complex labyrinth of narrow streets and it took us a while to walk to Durbur Square. Old temples and lots of people wanting to be our guide. Got some shots before the sun went down and a little video. Coming back, the setting sun lit up one of the snow capped Himalayan peaks in the distance. Spectacular and such a contrast to the exhaust and swimming mass of humanity we had been wading through.
One of our concerns has been that there is increased activity among the Maoist Guerillas not far from here. A school was attacked and corpses are still rotting there. Today, Gurkas (locals who are British military) were captured and killed. Tourists are supposed to be off limits to the Maoists as they support the economy but there is always a first. America is supplying arms to the Nepalese army so we aren’t too popular with the guerillas.
When I was out in the morning, I stepped into a shop to buy a paper. As I came out, a regiment of Nepal military soldiers was out running—two by two, along the street, full uniform, boots and rifles. I wanted to grab my camera for a shot but was right in the middle of them and didn’t want to appear offensive. They were a sorry looking lot – not particularly strong or disciplined and the rifles looked ancient. Then coming back from the square, we followed a military truck that was open out the back and was packed with soldiers in camouflage fatigues. They did look sharp and strong and had M16s. I was trying to figure out who they were as they didn’t look like the group I’d seen earlier in the day. They almost appeared Caucasian but looked too much alike to be Americans. Distinct features, chiseled faces – almost Russian looking. But according to our guide, there are only Nepali soldiers in the country and a handful of US special forces trainers.
Another dinner at the oasis (hotel) and then early to bed. We are all wanting to go to bed early but get up at three or four local time. I don’t even know what day it is but think it is Tuesday. We ate and were ready to go by 7:30. The morning paper said Maoists had killed a couple of British military – one an officer – who were in the outer areas recruiting for the Gurkas. Apparently the Maoists don’t like that either. Sunil says it’s a mess. I can tell in talking to him that it is a major concern of his – maybe one of the reasons he is so pensive.
We rode to the airport, accosted by outside and inside porters. We just paid the inside porter this time. He was worth it and won us a major coup. Everyone was queued up and we were at the end of the line and no one was at the counter. Then, a ticket agent pulled the sign over the counter that said Lhasa and moved it clear to the other end of the room. There was a stampede by everyone in line and our porter ended up first. We got our boarding passes and since the entire process was manual, we were near the front of the plane (Air China Boeing 757).
In line there was a group of people with their bicycles in a box. I talked to one of the women and they were bicycle gods from Germany. All very fit and attractive. She was very nice and told me they were going to cycle from Lhasa to Katmandu – same route as us- stopping at Everest base camp. They bike a lot through Spain and Myorka.
Well luck couldn’t hold and I ended up with an isle seat over the Himalayas. Even so, from what I could see it was absolutely spectacular! Some clouds below but the peaks were crystal clear – snow covered even at the end of the summer. I just can’t begin to describe the ruggedness!
Mark did get a window and was busy videoing and taking pictures. I sat next to a couple of women from Holland and one of them was kind enough to video a segment and take a couple of shots for me. They were very friendly and were basically doing the Lhasa to Katmandu route by Land Cruiser. She was a paramedic and her sister was in banking but they didn’t let their sister who was married come along.
You meet so many interesting people on a trip like this. Standing in line I talked to a kid from Boise that was coming to Katmandu for three or four months. He was young and I got the impression this was all pretty new to him. He was hoping someone would meet him and he would be helping at a school for the time he was there. I moved lines and ended up next to another fellow, James from England. He loved to travel and was so disgusted with his friends that all they wanted to do was go to Spain and get drunk. He worked as a mason and decorator and would work just long enough to get money to go travel again. He didn’t plan on being home before Christmas.
Dropping down towards Lhasa, we weren’t very far above the mountain tops. We hit turbulence and the Dutch girls next to me both screamed. Then the paramedic turned to me and said, “I love that!” Cruising over the mountains, my altimeter watch had showed about 7000 feet but as we started to descend, it gradually rose to 11,800—out of the plane on the ground it showed 12,100. The airport was such a contrast from Katmandu! There it was smoggy haze, very crowded, warm and a little humid. Here it was severe clear—and barren!! Barren and stark best describes the landscape. No signs of green anywhere. No vegetation on the mountains—just rock and some sand—sand dunes coming out of rock mountains.
The airport looked new (ours was the only plane there) but inside it was an old building with a new face in progress. I wish I could take pictures inside (NOT ALLOWED) of the signs for health quarantine and the English sign asking us to be patient with the construction. Chinese phrasing in English and where they split words (wrapping a single letter) was hilarious.
As we entered, we had to pass health quarantine. A woman in uniform with a white mask covering her face pointed some instrument about the size of a cigar at my forehead – right between the eyes—and pressed a button. I think it was a thermal sensor that checking for elevated temperature. Coming through Hong Kong, we had to go past a screen and sensor that looked like it was detecting heat—probably looking for fevers as SARs indications.
This was the first time I have ever had baggage X-rayed at the airport on the way out. Sunil showed our group visa and we were allowed to leave. The exit door to the X-ray area was a sea of black-headed men—one right at the door with a video camera. I pushed my way through them with many of them asking who my guide was. Sunil finally found him—you must have a Chinese guide while in Tibet so we now have two guides.
His name was Nrawong and he took us to a van where we were each presented with a Tibetan silk scarf and welcomed to the country. Leaving the airport, there was immediately nothing around. The drive to Lhasa is 95 kilometers (60 miles) and takes an hour and a half. Good road. For much of it we head west along the Bramhaputra River, cross a bridge and then head back east. The ride was fascinating! Stark hills, the countryside brown but there were aspen trees planted along side the road that were fall yellow. We passed several Tibetan homes, one-story rock and mud with small windows. Sometimes surrounded by walls but no lawn or yards and no machinery anywhere. Occasionally a colored bus was parked where there were several houses in a village.
In the fields, people were working—an occasional horse but mostly yaks—plowing for the fall. Several places we noticed women in colored outfits, sitting around each other on mats—maybe eating lunch. Some houses had people in front, sitting together. We stopped for a few minutes next to a Buddha statue carved and painted in a rock wall. The posts were bedecked with tattered scarves like ours and prayer flags. To the side of the road were women on a mat selling jewelry and prayer wheels. “Lookie, lookie, cheap, bery cheep, lookie, lookie.”
The road close to Lhasa became more crowded and we soon passed large new buildings – white with tile roofs and large white fences. Military--Chinese military! The picturesque scene of Tibet gradually began to decay into concrete Chinese block houses – rows of two to four story shops. To me, there was almost a palpable distaste for the intrusion. The closer we got to Lhasa, the more concrete jungle block houses. It also seemed that we passed six or seven Chinese military bases coming in. All shining and new, all with wide roads, white walls and mannequin guards, smartly dressed in Chinese military uniforms, standing at perfect attention on raised pedestals. Why such a military presence is needed here is far beyond me. More cars, more trucks, more concrete, power lines, more people in western looking clothing.
When we finally caught sight of the Potala Palace, it was a quick glimpse between streets lined with buildings covered with signs and clouded in exhaust haze. Our hotel is a quaint Tibetan lodge catering only to foreigners. The rooms are ornately colored in reds, oranges, yellow and maroon. I opened the curtains and the small rectangular windows perfectly framed the Potala just between building walls next door – a nice touch! But then the clerk came up and told us we had the wrong room. He made it sound like we would each have a room on the floor lower down and there was still a view there so we agreed to move. We opened the door, they brought in both Mark and my bags and when I opened the drapes—a solid wall just above the ladies who were washing the hotel laundry by hand. It was the beginning of our negative affections for the place.
Dinner in the hotel dinning room and Sunil joined us. He and I had the Nepali set meal which was a full course of soup, rice, lentils, chicken curry, vegetables, greens and mango pickle (which was the only thing I couldn’t stomach). We stopped by the business center which consisted of a small sectioned area with a three cheap Chinese made PCs and tried email but never could get a connection. It was 5 Yuan for 10 minutes (exchange is 8 Chinese yuan for $1 US). Later I found a shop outside the hotel with a high-speed connection for 5 Yuan an hour.
We are getting what we bargained for on this trip but I can’t help but think we are paying way more than it would cost if you just did it on your own. When I get back, I’m going to itemize the cost and see. There is no way Mark and Rod would travel on the fly but Ben would and I think we could do similar to our other trip. The thing that you pay for is predictability for hotel, food and travel arrangements.
I slept very good with a clear head due to the high altitude and dry air—and the firm but comfy beds. After breakfast, we met Nrawong (sounds like Nawong) and our driver. We went out west of town to visit the Drepung Monastery (see the pictures for details). Most impressive (next to the setting and architecture) was the kitchen. The monastery used to house 10,000 monks and they were fed from one kitchen. The teakettle alone was probably 250 gallons. It was a big metal pot set in a rock base with a fire pit underneath it that is always going. The smoke, the copper pans and teapots (4-5 gallon), the rice cooker, the butter tea urns and the monks made for a fascinating sight. The monks were making decorations for a festival tomorrow—little pointy things out of barley dough and then adorned with butter.
Butter is important here. The lamps that burn in many places are metal vats with wicks and are burning butter as oil. To worship, people bring butter with them and use a spoon or knife to carve off a piece and place it in the lamp vats. Butter is sold in bricks covered with yellow plastic outside the temple. Nrawong said it used to come from Yaks and cows but now it is mostly vegetable oil. People from the country still bring the good stuff. They also buy/bring lamps with them. They light a lamp and then burn it over the larger lamp, melting their oil into the vat. Butter lamps are available everywhere.
We visited the assembly hall where monks gather in the evening to chant. They are monks here for life. The adhere to a schedule with meditation study class time and in the afternoon, debate. At 3 p.m. we heard the large gong ringing, calling them to the yard to debate. I have it on video but quite the amazing process. They pair up and one asks a question to the other, clapping their hands loudly at the question. The other is supposed to quickly respond with the right answer. They are mostly young men. In a way, it reminded me of the MTC with the noise and concentration. (This was all at Sera Monastery this afternoon.)
Drepung is built on a hillside with a commanding view of the valley. Way above in the rocks was the hermitage where monks climb to meditate. We also saw a door to a cave where monks go to chant. Nrawong is very knowledgeable and also very devout. Many times he gives money to the monks to pray for him. He would bow or place his forehead on the rail or inside the base or under the scriptures in a reverent way. He is a good man. I was also impressed with the Tibetans who came through—many of them were from the country and came as families—carrying butter or butter lamps and paying reverent homage to the images.
The images were of Buddha (past, present and future), lamas (Dalai and Penchant), and others like dead abbots of the monastery. Some images were in small rooms, some in large assembly halls. One area we visited was the living quarters of the Dalai Lama and it was like a penthouse high above the complex.
I was particularly touched by two old women who worked their way up to the top levels of the most holy place. The steps are incredibly steep, three to four inches wide, 12-18 inches high and open—about like a ladder. One old woman was encouraging the other who was moaning in pain at every step. When she got to the top and saw that I was watching, she stood up straight, smiled and touched her hip to indicate it hurt. At the holy room, two country women came out with their families—obviously moved and in tears by the experience of having seen or experienced something important. The families moved together through the progression of the monastery in a path, all putting in butter, turning prayer wheels or worshiping at a statue.
Nrawong and Rod were very patient with Mark and I as we took pictures and video. Different rooms required us to pay to take pictures, 10-20 Yuan. A monk would collect the picture-taking fee.
We had lunch at the Yeti Tibetan Food Restaurant--Chinese and Tibetan style with large square tables and couches with rugs covering them. We had stopped at a rug factory earlier where we saw them making rugs—flashbacks to India. Mark bought one for his office and did our obligatory buying. They bring you in, give you a sales pitch (made from best Tibetan wool, by orphans, and these are the best quality and cheapest prices—similar to India and Morocco). All obstacles to a sale are removed (we ship, we take credit card) and you end up feeling like you owe them something if you don’t buy because no one else is in the shop and they turned the lights on and opened the doors just for you.
I slipped outside and took pictures of the parabolic solar tea heaters. The dish is metal but covered with a mylar film that is reflective and focuses the head to a center point. The teapot is strategically mounted right at the focus of the heat. The units are positioned to the sun, moved when needed and can have a pot of water boiling in a matter of minutes. Butter tea is made with hot water, butter and tealeaves. At the monastery, they had a huge churn the water, butter and tea is mixed before serving. At the restaurant, I tried a sip. I suppose if you can get used to yogurt, you can get used to butter tea.
Back to the hotel and I went out walking. Open meat markets, cheap clothes. Interesting how they have a store for shoes, one for coats, one for crackers, one for drinks. I cashed some money into small bills and found an Internet shop. The shop was a crowded room of computers with stations only large enough for Chinese but crammed with foreigners doing email. I found some post cards and want to send them to the boys in my neighborhood. I’m hoping to mail them from the post office at Base Camp, supposedly the highest post office on earth.
I don’t know if I mentioned this but Nrawong took us to the holy place inside of Sera monastery. There were the remains of some Dalai who died in 1997. He was a great scholar and in the same area were lots of remains (all inside of statues or stupas) of many abbots and other great teachers. He said that when a monk is ready to move to the next level, they have similar to an oral examination and the higher order monks sit on the stools above them. The highest order is overseen by the Dalai Lama and the oral examinations last a day or more. The highest level is Tantra or Tantric and it takes several years to reach this point. I failed to mention that the Tantric monks were off debating in the courtyard but were far less animated. Nrawong said these are monks for life – not just for a few weeks or months like Thailand.
It seems that the monastery was the main source of government and religion and education and with the Chinese governemt and public schools, the need has declined dramatically—ten thousand to eight hundred monks. Those who paid to have their children educated at the monastery now pay for college or school.
One place was interesting – the holy horse head Buddha. People were lined up all around the walls of the stupa with a narrow passage way. When they got to it, there was a chanting monk and they would stick their heads down under the horse head Buddha in a box like place. As I came past, someone was just pulling a tiny baby out of the box. The monk then used his thumb to smear something black on the baby’s nose. He then turned to me, broke from his chant and said, “horse head Buddha!” and then went back to the ritual. Narwong said if children are having problems learning, their parents bring them here. They leave the black on their nose for one month and after that don’t have any more learning problems.
I’ve had a lot of flashes of thoughts so far. Walking, listening observing – many things click into place and seem to be glimpses of a bigger picture. But when it comes to writing them down, I’ve lost the thread.
Narswong seems to be very religious in that that he knows all of the history and how it applies. He’s not just reciting tourist info but he believes it. We were just talking about compassion. It’s what’s in your heart that really matters compassion-mercy. Could that be considered the same as charity? It’s the objective of the Buddhas and their perfect lives. So many parallels in so many ways. Building, architecture and grand worship places. Here and in Europe, religious structures built that house the remains of the leaders/saints/teachers. It’s almost like religion gains infinite mass under leaders/architecture and control and then implodes with only the shell left to worship. The vibrancy, life, the spirit is lost. But people who are searching must wade through history, doctrine, ritual, etc. and many get frustrated and <ctrl><alt><del> on everything religious. I feel like I need to figure it out but it’s very vast.
Some are cremated and sometimes their bones are in the stupa – little children and bad people’s bodies are thrown in the river. Narwong said ordinary people like him, the bodies stay at the house with the family for 2-3 days. The flesh dies but it takes a few days for the spirit to leave. Then the family – his and his brothers in the case of his father – take the body to the mountains where the birds and animals eat the meat – return it to the earth. Even the bones are ground and given to the birds. The cycle of life starts again.
Today we visited the Potala Palace. Started in the seventh century on a rock hill above the city. It burned a couple of times and was built to its present state in the 19th century. Over 1000 rooms. We visited many – climbing the narrow steep steps, wandering the passageways. An assembly hall, monuments to dead leaders. The fifth king of Tibet was a great establisher of law providing boundaries with neighboring countries, alphabets, learning, etc.
The current Dalai Lama is number 14. He was forced to flee in 1959 at the age of 25 to India. We also visited his summer palace – a 360000 square meter garden complex with the summerhouse of the Dalai Lama. It was finished in 1954 and it was from there that he left for India. A more livable place but still awash with images. Interesting wall of history from the start of man to 1959. Man was a monkey, seduced by a demon. He said “no” but she reasoned with him that all life would be lost if they didn’t marry. He said he would for the greater good so they married and had six kids. One of the children was human and that began the human race.
Back to the hotel, Rod and I did some walking. I got a shirt and another fleece. North Face Summit—180 Yuan or about $22. Mark said it would have been $100 in the US. Can’t tell if it is real or not – seems real and had all the tags but the zipper is on the wrong side and an XL isn’t that large. Also got another shirt.
We met Tenzing who is the Snow Lion representative in Lhasa. He is young, a mover and a shaker and speaks good English. He is Tibetan but studied in Nepal. He will be traveling with us as well. Narwong is a contracted Chinese guide and his company has offices in Lhasa, Beijing and Hong Kong. Apparently, foreigners can’t go anywhere in Tibet without a guide. Tenzing said no way could I take a motorcycle through Tibet on my own. China I can do if I wait one month in country for the permit. But no just showing up at the airport and catching a taxi to town. There is only one international flight a day into the country.
It seems that everyone is sort of on the same circuit. The family (dad, mom and 2 kids) that was on the plane from Bangkok with us, we have seen at Drepung, Sera and Potala. Nice family. Also the Dutch quartet and the bicycle gods. All very nice and we get more acquainted each time we meet.
We all changed more money. Mark has made some nice major purchases. He bought a tanka in Katmandu, a rug from the factory and a raft of prayer flags and post cards. And, he and I just went back and he bought a really nice prayer wheel with turquoise on it. The guy we bought it from gave us bracelets as a present because we were good bargainers. We both bought some Tibetan currency that was taken out of circulation before 1960. Today I had him film me buying a Tibetan coat. They are cool looking and I’ve been talking some theme shots to put together a video segment. It was pretty funny. They dressed me in it and showed me how to adjust it with quite a crowd watching. She started at 250Y and I said 100 but was leaving to go back to another lady that I wanted to buy it from when she said OK.
Last night we ate at a nice restaurant designed for foreigners. We all arrived and then had a buffet dinner. Afterwards, we enjoyed a program of music and dance in traditional style. Got most of it on video. The finale was a dance with a yak. Two men inside the costume and it was so well done – especially the tail.
We learned at lunch that Yak is male—you don’t get Yak butter or milk (according to Tenzing)--that comes from Dri or female. This morning Narwong took us to the Dreprung which is only a block from the hotel. We didn’t go inside as we will tonight for the monks chanting. The outside is a market—all the way around. Everyone moves clockwise—chanting, spinning, prayer wheels and doing prostrations or chants.
The market is quite impressive and you could have a heyday with a packing crate. The big metal horns that make that haunting deep sound are available–lots of silk. Some beautiful purple jade carvings—like jade in layers. Expensive though at $1200 US for a couple of bookends. We took lots of video and pictures.
Ate at the Lhasa Kitchen – I had Chinese mixed soup – very good meal. On the way back, I videoed a lady—she wanted money. We handed out small bills ($.12-60 US) and could not get away from the crowd—like bees to honey. Completely cleaned out our small bill stash. Didn’t feel any better after doing it either. Narwong said many of the monks who chant on the sidewalk and ask for money are not real and go to the dance hall at nights.
Just got back from the Jokang. Very interesting. It is the most holy place in Tibet. The Buddha image is almost 2000 years old and very sacred. Once in a person’s life, they are to make a pilgrimage to here. Sometimes it takes 5 years and must be done in the winter when harvest is over. It was growing dark when we entered and there was a line going along the walls and inside. Because we were with a guide and Narwong knew the guards, we went right in. The large assembly hall was full of monks, seated in rows on their maroon cushions, chanting. The dark hall, timbers, and the flame of the butter lamps provided a warmth and unique smell that has become familiar.
People, families old and young, were queued up all around the hall to see the Buddha. We passed all and went right it. There was a warm spirit there, maybe the heat, maybe the friendly monks, or the intense light on the gold Buddha. I could tell that Narwong was very reverent and respectful here. Putting money in and asking the monk to pray. He was asking him to pray for us and our journey. I put in some money as well. I felt a little awkward in that he was praying for our trip and we weren’t—at least in his way. We have been praying every day in our own way and hopefully all of it together will make for a good and safe journey. We bought more stuff. Went back to the backpacker store and found the fleece that I had been looking for yesterday. 150Y or $18US for a $70 shirt – I like it!
We opted out of the Dhood Gu hotel café and went to the diner at the Yak Hotel. They had French fries – Rod is already talking about stake at Sizzler when he gets home. Both he and Mark have been a little sick – each had nose bleeds. Rod has had stomach problems and started on Cipero. Mark had stomach last night and both are on Diamox for altitude sickness. I would like to go without taking it if possible. Last night I didn’t sleep well. I think there was smoke in the room. We are all anxious to get out of town – away from people and up to the mountains.
10-25-03 Saturday (I think)
Left Lhasa today and traveled to Shegatse. Quite the trip! Had a great nights rest—we slept with the window open. Came out this morning to two Toyota Land Cruisers, a white one and a green one. Both are pre 1994 but seem to be in pretty good shape. 189000 kilometers on ours but still tight and rides well. Our driver is Norbun and the other driver is Mr. Fung. Norbun is Tibetan and very polite and Mr. Fung is Chinese. Mark and I ride in the green Cruiser in lead with Narwong while Rod, Tenzing and Sunil are in the rear. We are up front so if we stop for pictures, the other car can stop and we won’t get separated.
It’s difficult to accurately describe the scenery. We get video of it but it is so bumpy no one will ever view it! We followed the river much of the way. Bramaputra for a while and the then Kyichu. The Bramaputra was wide and flat to start. There were thousands of planted willow (aspen) trees all in the river area. I couldn’t quite figure out why. Narwong said it was a Chinese government project.
We passed many traditional homes – some alone but most in little communities. Houses near Lhasa were of stone, single story with flat roofs. The walls go above the roof about 2-4 feet. Small windows and thick walls. The roofs are made of pole beams, very close together and then covered with rock and earth. Every year, they redo the roofs. At each corner are prayer flags that get changed each year during the New Year Festival. As we moved further from Lhasa, the houses were more made of mud brick or clay blocks and dung cakes.
There are rock terraces everywhere. The ruggedness of the landscape is incredible. It seems that water effects are everywhere and people live on the edge. Large ravines coming down from the mountains high above. House and terraces perched on the canyon walls to the sides. Rock dikes to channel the water but they look puny compared to the ravines. The homes high up look like sanctuaries. We passed a power generation plant with a rock/cement water channel ran all the way up a steep ridge and into the clouds. The weather was cloudy and rainy most of the day.
We stopped many times for pictures. We videoed a whole little community in harvest—plowing, moving straw, working in the terraces. Yaks on the hillsides, sheep and goat herds along the way. Threshing barley and winnowing red rape or canola. The pictures we missed included: rowing across the gorge in a skin boat, sheep high on the hillside on a narrow path heading up, a yak/mule train along the river below.
We passed a few bicyclists and I made a note to myself not to ever do that! Dusty, rocky, bumpy road, trucks, busses and taxis driving like crazy. Maybe a mountain bike on the other side of the river on the trail would be ok. The road gets washed out a lot and it’s easy to see why. Steep sides and the earth is like a gray gravel/sand loam that easily washes away. Several places water was coming from way high above in a series of cascading waterfalls. Many of the ravines were dry but the effects of water at some point in time were everywhere. Large channels with high water marks two to three times the depth of the river. As the landscape flattened there were delta like fans that came out from the rock mountain canyons where water had channeled deep ravines and ruts in the dirt or even rocks. The river itself was beautiful—a gray green color—smooth much of the time but also some good rapids in a few spots. Mark was eying it as a return for rafting.
We stopped once through the gorge and had a picnic lunch. Sandwiches made by Narwong’s mom. Leaving Lhasa, we stopped and she brought them out to him at the car. We asked if she was concerned about him and he said, “a little.” He is really a good man. They are all praying that we will have a safe and successful journey. Yesterday we gave money to Sridiva, the god of protection. Tenzing and Sunil were walking several times around the Jokong and he gold Buddha, clockwise to bless our trip. Chanting was in full swing. Police security and monks were moving the line along.
Lunch was good – sandwiches, banana, apple and crackers. The stop was another government project – planting trees and terraces along the river. The broad flood plain had trees planted on gravel bars and along the side. At one point, there were thousands of trees and no water – most of the trees looked dead. The trip from start to finish was 6 hours. Coming into Shegatse, the road was under construction and we had to back track. The road along the way ranged form good tar to total washouts where we 4-wheeled through ravines.
Finally into Shegatse. We pulled into one hotel (nice) only to be told they had no rooms. Came over to the Shegatse Hotel. The lobby was nice but the heat ended just passed the front desk. Our room was warm however and light and large. We rested for a few minutes and then headed out with Narwong to the Zhashenlunbu Temple. Three large buildings. The first one contained a 26 meter high Buddha—the highest sitting Mastreya Buddha statue in the world. It was made of gold and copper. Pretty impressive but at 75Y to photograph it wasn’t worth it. Always warm and kind of homey in the monasteries. The butter lamps, smell of wood and incense. The assembly rooms with cushions covered in maroon carpets, the high chair of the Dalai Lama, the seats of the abbots and a lower chair for the disciples.
At one stupa containing the remains of several Panchent Lamas, there was holy water that a monk ladled out into the hands of people including Narwong. They drank and then put the remainder on their heads. He said that it was like taking the holyness’ goodness into you – helps make your heart pure. What got me was 1) the water was supposed to be holy because it has special powder in it but the powder was made from the dead remains of clothes that were on his holiness while his body dried out—before it was cremated. And 2) a big rat was running around in the stupa, over and under the statues, while I watched. Narwong went up, bent down, and a monk pressed a cloth bag on his head and shoulder several times. He said it was the clothes of a dalai or penchant lama.
Sometimes, I’m tempted to make light of the whole thing—we are about monasteried out. Eleven headed Buddhas with 1000 arms with the all seeing eye in each hand. 1000 Buddhas in different meditating positions. Eight desciples, mandolas, tantric and the female embrace. Tons of stupas with remains in them and thousands of statues, scriptures and paintings. A couple of other thought provoking similarities. At once place in the temple, monks were reading names of people who needed blessings. The names were written on red pieces of paper. Also the drinking of sacred water to become pure and holy. This temple has a large white wall outside on the mountain side that is for hanging large tanka paintings during festivals. It takes 20 monks to carry one tanka up the hill.
Shegatse is interesting. Originally it was very small with 6-8000 monks and only the monastery. Much of it was destroyed during the cultural revolution. Now it is rebuilt some with the help of China and how has 50,000 people, mostly Chinese. Built from the ground up in 1992. It looks modern but imposed as a sort of framework for tourists. A sign in the hotel says, “Tibet, FairyLand” and shows the Z monastery with a rainbow over it. But good Internet here! I finally got my boys’ addresses and mailed post cards. Also got family addresses for cards from Katmandu.
Dinner buffet tonight and good dinner with Rod’s 51st birthday. The group got a cake and we sang. Told him the card I saw – “Birthday’s are look boogers, the more you have, the harder it is to breath.” Seemed particularly appropriate here where it is difficult breathing. Our room actually has an oxygen generator in it with a tube to put up your nose. Doesn’t seem to work and looks like it needs some sort of key or card device to operate.
Didn’t’ feel too well today. So far, I have managed minor headaches with breathing. But everyone is on diamox and this one was stronger so I took it and a couple of ibuprofens. Feel really good now and even my chronically painful shoulder doesn’t hurt. I have some stomach churning and gas but nothing taking me to the bathroom.
Tomorrow, on to Everest National Park. I hope the rain lets up!
10-26-03 Sunday
What a spectacular day! We had prayer and a little scripture realizing that it was Sunday and we wouldn’t be in church. Mark prayed for a tempering of the elements and by the time we were on the road, the clouds started to break and we were in full glory sun. So many things to take pictures of. Villages, many people are working in the fields. Yaks, villages, plowing, kids. We stopped so many times I’m sure Norbun was getting frustrated with our progress. We caught some shots of wild erosion. This place lives to shift with the current but over a long, long period of time. The road became much flatter for a while and lots of farmland. More trees, government dead sticks is what they look like. We climbed up to the Lhotse pass – 14,000 + feet. Windy and took some pictures before that we stopped at a kilometer marker--5000 kilometers from Shainghai!
Kids are at every stop, begging. So hard to know what to do. Sometime, they are just taught to beg – other times, they want and need food. We stopped in Latse for lunch. Kind of a small city. Kids and women stood outside with their faces pressed to the glass. Narwong gave them bread and they ate it down. Once you give, it starts an avalanche of people running to you. One woman kept pointing at her tooth- I gave her 10 and immediately another with a baby was there. They look as healthy as any others. In many cases they are just trained to go for foreigners. Still it is hard. In a way, I wish we had come armed with a thousand 1 Yuan notes. Even on top of the passes with no houses for 20 km in any direction, there were 3 little boys begging. Judging by the simplicity of their lives, they make far more by begging than by anything else they could do.
Work we saw included gathering dried weeds for firewood. Herding sheep and goats, plowing with yaks, horses donkeys. Irrigating, building a house, winnowing barley and rape. The colors today were intensified. When the sun came out, what appeared to be all gray was a rainbow of color. Red rocks and earth on mountains with tan and white. Dark purples, blacks, subtle greens in multiple shades of gray. The landscape also changed dramatically. Flat and much of the gravelish loam. Then after the first pass and going up the second the rocks were black and slate-like, very loose. Coming down, round rocks and boulders. Mark pointed out one place and I had to do a double take as there were hundreds of sheep among the boulders – they blended right in.
We saw more water, coming in from side canyons to the main gorge we were going up. In a few places, ice and the hilltops were all covered with snow. I would love to see this place when water is in full swing – coming out in all the gorges, canyons and streams. From the sight of things, it would be a watery place during monsoon.
About 6, we had to stop at the check point with military looking at our passports. We stayed in the car and Narwong took them in. They never even checked the car to see if we were inside.
At 6:30, we arrived at our first camp. Very impressive. Kaji and crew had set up all the tents with a spectacular view of the little village and valley looking towards the north. A row of North Face expedition tents were lined up and ready for us. A small green tent was off to the side, our latrine. A cook tent, a dining tent and a big blue Dong Feng truck that had hauled the gear and staff up from the Nepal border. Our service is first class! They brought a pan of hot water to our tents for each of us to wash our faces. Dinner was served at 7:30 in the dining tent. Nice table cloths, place settings, and candles. Food was the best of the trip so far. Ginger soup, moomoos (dumplings) with sauce, potatoes, vegetables and more. Topped it off with a hot peach and hot drinks. They brought Ovaltine, milk and chocolate for us as we don’t drink tea or coffee. At 8:30 in the morning, they will bring a hot drink to our tent and breakfast is at 9. A hot water bottle was on our sleeping bag and it is toasting my feet right now.
The sunset was spectacular. The colors of the sky, the mountain formations—all very breathtaking.
10-27-03 3:40 p.m.
Sitting at the Rongbuk Monastery at the base of Mount Everest in 50 mph winds, waiting for them to die down enough to put the tents up. The crew was putting the cook tent up – they piled boulders on the tie ropes and it still blew down. They have finally pulled the big truck cross ways with the wind and tied the tent to the side of it.
Slept very good last night. The double bag thing worked well and the hot water bottle in the foot of the bag was almost too much! I slept form about 9:30 till 7:30, only waking a couple of times to relieve the diamox. One of the side effects is increased urination. A wake up call this morning at the tent with hot Ovaltine and milk. Then a hot bowl of water to wash my hands and face. I had used the “dutch chemical toilet” last night and completely drained my intestinal tract so have felt really good.
Ok...they are taking the tent down again. The land Cruiser is just a rocking on the wind. They are counting on it dieing down. Oh…change of plans.
We moved over to the monastery guesthouse. Shades of the Capital Hotel, 18 years ago in Katmandu—rough bed frame with a pad and a sheet. Apparently, it is run by monks and nuns and has about six or eight rooms and a little restaurant. It’s about 5:30 and people from all over the world have pulled in here. A Mercedes from Estonia (“Rolling Estonians”), English, Chinese, Japanese and a bunch I can’t tell all but the Estos are in a Land Cruiser. It will be comfortable here.
I felt great this morning. Put on the same clothes as I didn’t sweat at all yesterday. Breakfast in the dining Tent. Muslex, followed by rice porridge, then eggs and toast with hot tang – superb!
A small girl had come all the way from the village this morning and Mark wanted to take her picture so gave her a $5 bill. I took a couple of shots with the prayer flags in the background and the morning sun.
Then we began our ascent up the last pass before Everest, a serpentine of endless switchbacks. There has been some major effort put into building this road. Still bumpy and washboard but built up above the slope and in many places high block walls, hand built out of rock and mortar. We finally reached the top- My watch showed 16,800 feet. Narwong said, “Close your eyes”. As we passed underneath the arch of prayer flags and looked left—absolutely incredible view! The sky was completely clear and the view of 4 of the world’s twelve 8000 (26,240’) meter peaks was laid out before our eyes. (see pictures)
We stopped for quite a while, took regular, telephoto and video shots then individual and group. Then started to drop back down. The valley at the bottom was a wide plain of rock and several small villages on each side. More round rocks.
We stopped in a small village to see about yaks and waited a while. They used to get yaks there but the system has now changed. A lady got in with us to ride to Rongbuk to see about yaks. We are completely out of small bills and any thing to give to the kids but they were still there. We stayed in the car for a while but finally got out. It’s when they see the cameras that they start asking for money – putting their fingers to their mouths.
I pulled out a small bag of trail mix and divided it up among them, giving to the smallest first. It was so funny to watch them try and eat M&Ms, especially when they were melting in their hands. One little boy grabbed the empty bag and put his share back in it to save it. Several of them were carrying book bags and had new books. You could barely read “school” in English on the worn sign. This close to Everest, someone or group probably sponsored the school.
We stopped in the middle of a long stretch of road for lunch. Very tranquil and peaceful, the only sign of anything was some goats in the distance and a lone figure walking down the road.
The cook had prepared our lunch and gave it to use in a tin pan with a lid. Inside were fried potatoes, a boiled egg and a couple of pieces of tortilla bread.
I’ve been eating and drinking a lot and since taking diamox (half a pill twice a day – 200 mg) have had no headache. Rod doesn’t have much of an appetite – both he and Mark seem to be struggling with the food and a little tired. I’ve gone for a couple of walks by myself. After getting here, I walked up to some old stone squares, probably old parts of a monastery or a hermitage that were on the mountainside. Walking flat is ok but going up, I get winded easily.
I pulled out my parka shell and it is very nice. No cold at all in this wind. When I got back we checked in and then I walked around taking pictures. The view out of our room window (if you can call it a window—strapping tape, masking tape, plexiglass, broken and dirty glass) looks right at Everest. I’ve been staring at it all day and it is captivatingly spectacular.
Dinner at 7:30. I’m solar charging a camera battery and hoping that it works. One of my batteries is dead today and the cigarette lighter doesn’t work in either of the Land Cruisers. I have to sleep with the batteries in my bag to help them hold their charge.
10-28-03 2:45 p.m.
Just sitting here in the warm sun by the side of the monastery guesthouse – such a contrast from yesterday at this time! Hardly any wind. Sipping hot Tang. I would love to share this with my family, especially my brothers. So peaceful and such an incredibly spectacular view.
As the sun began to set last night, Mark had picked out a spot for photos. The wind was still blowing, 15-20 with gusts 25-30. We watched the entire sunset taking pictures as the colors changed. It was very subtle going from white to pale yellow to light pink. With no clouds, there were only slight variations in color or contrast. There must be no mountains to the west of Everest as it stayed lit even down at the glacier level for a long time after the sun went down on the mountains around us. It was still lit up after everything else had darkened.
As the last rays of pink disappeared, it went from cold to dang cold! I had been working in light gloves, covering them with heavy gloves between shots. After the sun went down, I couldn’t even get the tripod off. Mark couldn’t close his camera bag but thankfully Kaji was there to help him. He said he was dangerously cold.
The cook had set up in the hallway on one end of the guesthouse and we used the crews room as a dining hall. A wonderful meal – mushroom/onion/ginger soup. Main course of rice with vegetable meat, lentil soup and cauliflower. Dessert was heated pineapple in sweet sauce. They are first rate in food service, even out of a three-foot hallway!
I just looked straight above Everest about a quarter way up from the horizon and noticed the tiniest sliver of a crescent moon in a completely blue sky. I believe it is the smallest I have ever seen.
Slept good last night but got up a couple of times to go to the crapper-- Diamox effects. Still no stomach problems other than some gas pains – thankful for that. Rod and Mark have both had some nausea.
There are black crows circling the monastery and one just dropped a bomb six inches from my foot! The monks are working and singing as they work. Everyone in Tibet sings while the work. The washer women outside the window of our hotel in Lhasa, people working on a bridge or building a house—even our crew.
A little old lady just toddered into the courtyard and she can barely spin her prayer wheel. Nice thing about this place is we haven’t had any children begging. Almost completely out of anything I could give. I have a 1 Yuan bill left and some individually wrapped Lifesavers.
I slept warm so going to the outhouse wasn’t terrible but it was cold. The windows were all iced up on the room and many cars had a hard time starting this morning. My thermometer read 38 in the room but ice in my bottle was frozen so it isn’t right. It didn’t start getting light until 8 a.m. I went out to the same post and took a couple of morning shots of Everest. Not as dramatic but surfaces that were dark last night were lit this morning. Not ten minutes after the sun hit the ridge, huge plumes of snow were blowing off and down it.
The temperature changes so drastically in limited atmosphere. Right now in the sun, it’s probably 60 degrees. This morning while I was taking pictures it was below 10. Step in the shade and feel the wind and it drops 50 degrees. Managing hot and cold on a hike is difficult.
This morning after breakfast, we had a training hike to an old monastery site above the guesthouse. It was a steep climb. I tired easily but also recovered quickly. On my hardest climbs in Utah, I would hike 25 steps and breath 15 to recover. Here, it’s 10 steps and 15 recovery breaths. Most of the others are about the same speed except for Yusuph. He is tall and young and taking Mark’s pack, charged right to the top. They told me he was from Malaysia but they all seem to enjoy teasing him. He is Nepali. We all made it and then lay down on the top to rest. Tenzing posed nude with his back to us and his face to the mountain while Sunil took his picture. “What kind of picture would you call that?” he asked? “Pornography!” I said. “Maybe holy pornography,” Sunile said. He didn’t know I had my telephoto and have incriminating evidence.
We worked our way down quickly. It was only 1000 feet up but felt like a 3000 foot climb. We came back to hot Tang. We are constantly being served. None of us were hungry coming back but they had prepared a big lunch of beans, tuna, sausage, coleslaw, tomato-cheese sandwiches and apples. Mark is just laying underneath his sleeping bag. I’m tired of sleeping – to bed last night at 9 and up at 8. Tonight, I’m going to put my book under my covers so I can read.
A group of young people just came into the courtyard. They have been trekking from Tingri for the last four days and have endured wind and snow. There are several from France but they are speaking English with others.
The drivers have been trying to start the Land Cruiser. Mr. Fung’s wouldn’t start. Rod says he is a rough driver. His truck shows no oil at all. It sounded like it was flooded and smelled of gas but they insist it is the oil. They have a gallon of oil but want to save it. After it started and warmed there was oil on the dipstick (while running) so he insisted it was all right. I’m going to trade my Yukon for one of these Land Cruisers – they are tough. This country is so harsh and to have drivers who treat it like Mr. Fung…says a lot for the vehicle.
I talked to a woman this morning… couldn’t tell if she was a woman or a witch. She was cursing her guide and yelling at her driver—pretty foul mouth. She was very nice to me but has had a PR agency in LA, toured with bands and the music industry – sold her home in Bellaire and her BMW and is out searching for the meaning of life. Tenzing saved the translation day. Apparently, they had gone to the base camp 8 km up the road yesterday but it was too windy. She wanted to go back but the driver wanted money—through translation it was found that he was paid by the KM for a certain trip and she thought she had unlimited use of the car. An Australian lady that was with her told me she had a terrible night – she was sure she was going to die. She hadn’t taken any diamox so I gave her some of mine as the dosage we are using is much smaller than the number of pills that I have left. I have tingling in my hands and feet a few times a day but that’s the only other side effects. Hopefully a few more days at this altitude and we will be fine.
10-29-03
Sitting here in our little room with the warm sun streaming through the windows. Very pleasant day with no wind. Yesterday afternoon, I just sat on the porch and wrote and read and watched the mountain. Rod had been looking for a nice photo of the monastery and the mountain. We went back up to the spot after the truck moved and took some nice shots. There was a fellow up there taking pictures as well and he was from Poland. His name was Michael and he and his friend had met the French in Shegatse and they hiked the old Tingri road together. There were no cars or traffic and it was really remote but they had been caught in the snowstorm. The don’t have a Chinese guide because they didn’t ask and just got Chinese visas coming in from Beijing on public transportation. Supposedly, you need a permit to go beyond base camp but Oliver (the French guy) said they were just going to get up early and sneak past. They were hoping to go from the monastery here to Camp I tonight and then Camp III tomorrow and then back out. Their plans are fluid. I think it would be interesting to write a book on people like them. Michael was just so excited to be in Tibet when only recently he was in Poland. They don’t pack too heavy yet seem to have what they need. They have good clothes but don’t seem to be loaded down. Michael said one of the girls was sick and that they hadn’t taken any diamox- his docotor said only take it in emergency and then only on the way down.
Another full course meal last night. Pasta, mushrooms, and French fries plus tomato soup. They just keep bringing food. I’m eating 2-3 times what Rod and Mark eat. I think most of it has to do with not wanting to offend the cooks and also being accustomed to the food from this part of the world. Slept very warm last night only getting up once. The stars are intense! No moon, no clouds and very little atmosphere. The sun is much closer.
Today is to be an easy day. We drive the 8 km to the base came and camp. The Yaks arrive. Then we head up tomorrow. Right now the plan is to go to Camp I, then an interim camp, rest a day and then to Camp II. Go to Camp III and back to Camp I on the same day and then to Base Camp by Monday. I just calculated the elevation change. Base Camp is 16,700’, Camp III is 20,900’ – That’s about 4100’ elevation change over 15 miles. At home that would be one or two good hard days. Here it’s going to be six!
Afternoon. I just talked to the officer at the base camp here. There is a sign that says (see photo) – “Don’t go past the sign—if you get caught, you pay US$200”. The officer told me we had a 4-day permit for Camp I. I hope that we are straight on this. I talked to Oliver and Michael on the walk up from the monastery. They were hoping to get past the guard and bag a 6000 meter peak (19,680’) but the officer only gave them two hours. “Very frustrating,” Oliver said. Tenzing was telling them they couldn’t go past the outhouse where the sign was written on the wall. Oliver said, “If I stand on this side and peace across, will I have to pay?” Tenzing suggested they climb Tenzing Mountain which was 6000 meters and not in the permit zone. The Polish boys are intent on bagging a 6000 meter peak. Tenzing and another guy had named the peak when they climbed it once before.
Oliver and his girlfriend/wife (not sure which) are just finishing up a year and a half journey. The started in Central American through South America to Patagonia, then to Easter Island, Tahiti, New Zealand, Australia, Southeast Asia including Burma and then Mongolia (the most impressive to him), China and finishing up in Tibet. The Poles are only going to be gone for a month.
10-20-03 Thursday
Waiting while camp breaks. Last night, took more shots of Everest as the sun set. This time with closer zoom. Not quite as cold as we had a wind break. We were sitting on top of the hill behind the rock stupa and the prayer flags.
The yaks showed up at about sundown—six hairy creatures with saddles and two drivers. Yakbas or yakboys instead of cowboys. Rough looking outdoors men. Their tent has a split all along the ridge on top and they keep a fire going inside. Tenzing said they are burning kerosene and yak dung. We have a LOT of stuff for only six yaks!
Coming down from the sunset, I met the other camp that is here. Ruth and Grahm from England (he is from Oldham) and Rachel from South Africa. They are here with a guy in a wheel chair. Apparently he has brittle bone disease and has always wanted to do Everest base camp. Ruth arranged the tour and donors. While we were talking, another fellow walked up. I had noticed him earlier. He had on only a light jacket, no gloves and no hat and seemed perfectly comfortable. We, on the other hand, are decked in multiple layers of coats, hats, and gloves. I took off a pair of gloves and shook hands with him with still another pair on. His name was Neal and he has summited Everest. I wanted to talk to him longer but dinner was waiting on me so maybe later. He is taking his group to Camp III today and back if conditions permit!
Last night, I had a headache. Couldn’t tell if it was the altitude or something else. My resting heart rate was 96 instead of 60. When I took deep breaths, the rate came down considerably. Before going to bed, I took a full diamox and a couple of ibuprofens. I sure would like to understand how high altitude acclimatization works. Ruth said that diamox wears off after a while and doesn’t work. If that’s the case, we are not really acclimatizing but just mimicking the effects till the trip is over. They have been here for six days at this camp and are doing some pretty good hikes but I noticed that they are using oxygen in camp as well. Those summiting will spend a month or more at base came getting used to the altitude and getting their blood to carry more oxygen.
Last night I slept ok but was on the border of cold. I can put on more clothes and use the liner they gave me. I’m glad I brought the Thermorest mattress as I slid off it and really noticed the cold underneath. I have had so many dreams while here. Many of them just disjointed and bizarre.
Well, all the gear is laid out and they are looking to see if it will fit on the yaks. I told General Tenzing (he wears a long Chinese military overcoat) what the Base Camp authority said about our permit for Camp I. He said, “That’s right.” So, I guess we are going to sneak to Camp III—it’s not like the guard is going to come looking for us!
11-1-03
Turns out the permit was about right! We started out Thursday morning from Base Camp. I felt we could be going a lot faster but finally got to the last point that we could see base camp and still no yaks on the way. We waited and watched. Finally, Yusuph came bringing tea and we had lunch. He said that one of the yaks had escaped and they had to chase it down. Apparently these yaks belong to the monastery and are not used to the drivers.
They really are drivers, not herders. They tie them to rocks with long ropes so they don’t get away (old climbing ropes). Then they shew them towards where they need to be loaded—it takes at least two people. They have saddles but nothing is tied to the saddle. A yakba stands on each side with a rope and a load (a couple of long bags each). These are wrapped and tied to each other – slung over the saddle and balanced. Then other things are tied on top with a rope going underneath the yak’s belly.
Then they are just turned loose. Immediately they start on the trail in single file. Going up through the glacier moraine, three guys herded them--one behind and a couple on each side. They made pretty good time and were caught up with us by the time we were going to make the turn off to the East Rongbuk Glacier.
The canyon coming out of East Rongbuk is pretty steep and we started climbing sharply. The yakbas were yelling something at Kaji and he was yelling back. We had put on gators and waded through a couple of ravines where the snow was deeper than my trekking poles but because of the crust, we could stay near the surface.
Kaji got more concerned as we went. “Not good,” he said. “Impossible for yaks…short legs and deep snow, can’t go.” He told us to rest and he would go on ahead. I went with him and Yusuph. We waded through several of these ravines. Not only was the snow deep but the trail was on an extremely steep slope. One slip and yaks and equipment would be destroyed tumbling into the gorge below.
The gorge consisted of huge boulders with ice. We could hear water from the glacier thundering underneath the ice. We hiked on until it leveled out and we could see up the glacier a ways. Kaji said that with this much snow, it was impossible not only for yaks but for us without ropes and gear. Much of the trek was to be on glacier covered with rock—it looks like rock but underneath is ice. A trail is visible to a trained eye and marked by cairns and yak droppings. With this snow however, Kaji said it is impossible to tell where the holes are (the terrain is up and down even going up) and it would be easy to slip and fall to an ice pit or covered crevasse.
When we got back, they had already decided to set up camp near the mouth of the glacier. Tenzing said it is sometimes called Camp I as well. That night we ate dinner in the cook tent. Two butane burners were going and some candles and it was toasty warm. We have eaten so much on this trip! Mark and Rod lost their appetites days ago and it is starting to affect me as well. It feels like I have constant heart burn. They say you need to eat to keep strength so I keep shoveling it down but it doesn‘t taste as good as it use to!
At dinner, Tenzing asked us what we wanted to do to accommodate the change. We decided that we would do a day hike up to the seracs on the main glacier one day and then if we felt like it, maybe hike up towards Camp II.
It was a cold night! I put on everything I had, 2 sleeping bags, sock hat, 2 pairs of long johns, socks and my Mountain Hardware fleece—and I ended up getting too hot!<
